Pencil Skirt Cutting and Stitching | Free Pattern Drafting, Cutting & Sewing step by step guide

Pencil Skirt Drafting, Cutting, and Stitching 2021 in easy steps

The pencil skirt is a very trendy outfit worn by women. Pencil skirts are worn as party wear or daily wear, also can be worn in the office as a formal outfit. Women of all ages love to wear Pencil skirts. It gives a very attractive look and enhances your curve and makes you feel confident.

Pencil skirts are mostly made with dark colors like black, navy blue, brown and red color, etc in light colors like the white, pink color also goes well with a pencil skirt.

Materials like Leather, Denim are used for making Tube skirts or Pencil skirts.

The size of this Straight skirt may vary depending on your choice, it could be a full-length long skirt, knee-length skirt, or high-waisted pencil skirt.



In terms of drafting and sewing it's a very simple and easy DIY pattern, follow the steps to make a perfect skirt for yourself.

It can be made in 2 styles one with elastic on the upper belt and another without elastic and with buttons to secure the ends of the belt for fitting.

Here we are taking the example of a knee-length Pencil Skirt for Pattern Drafting and Cutting with Belt and Zipper.

Cloth Requirement:

Double size of the length of the Skirt.
1 Meter Approximately

Measurement for Drafting Front and Back:

Full length = 20 inches
Waist width = 28 inches
Hip width = 32 inches

0-1 = Full Length - 1 inch
0-2 = 1/4 waist + 0.25
0-4 = 7.5 inches
4-5 = 1/4 Hip + 1 inch
1-3 = 4-5
Join 2-5 in Hip Curve Shape
Join 5-3 Straight

Seam Allowance :

0.25 on top
0.5 for Bottom
1 inch for Sides

Cutting line (Dotted Line):

0-2-5-3-1

Belt Measurements:

Length = 30 inches (waist size + 2 inches)
Width = 2.5 inches (0.25 inches for seam allowance)

Cutting Line:

0-1-3-2

Sewing Method:

Sew the one side of the Skirt with a 1-inch seam allowance.

Sew another side of the skirt leaving 6.5 inches from the top for the zipper to be attached. As shown in the figure:

Now press on the side seam allowance, left for the zipper.

Sew the zipper on the wrong side and fold the leftover fabric on the zipper and sew.

Note: Sew the Zipper on the left side of the Skirt.

Now sew the bottom of the skirt by double folding towards the wrong side with a 0.25-inch seam allowance each.

Sewing Belt to the Skirt:

Start sewing one end of the belt to the opening of the skirt at the zipper leaving 0.5 inches for seam allowance. As shown in the figure:

And at the end, you will get about 1.5 inches belt left.

Now fold the belt with the wrong side out leaving 0.25 inches for seam allowance. As shown in the figure:

Sew the side of the belt (shown with a green line in the figure below) which is left out.

Do the same for another side as well, sew the corner of the belt which is out from the skirt. Refer to the figure:

Now turn the belt Right Side out.

Fold the belt on the wrong side and sew (length-wise) the skirt at 0.25-inch allowance.

Now make a Buttonhole and attach a Button where you get the perfect fitting.

Our Pencil Skirt or Straight Skirt is ready to wear with a belt and zipper.

Side Slit in Skirt

In addition, if you want to have an opening at the sides or one cut at the backside of the skirt you can always go for it.

To have the opening on the sides, leave the sides open 7-8 inches from the bottom.

On the seam allowance double fold the fabric towards the wrong side of the skirt and sew.

You will be much comfortable with the cuts at the sides.

Pencil Skirt with Elastic in the Waist Belt 

This pattern goes with the women who are slim enough to pull the skirt in place.

This is a very quick DIY pattern that can be done in minutes. In this pattern you can opt-out of the Zipper, make Side seams from Bottom to Top. Wrap the Elastic in Blet and sew on the top of the Skirt. 

And your DIY Pencil Skirt is ready to wear!